Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Mark's Journal from Congo Part 1

Many people seemed to enjoy my ramblings from my last trip to DR Congo so I, Mark, thought I would give it another try for this trip. There were once many AIM missionaries in DR Congo (then Zaire) but today, due to the potential for unrest, only five. The areas where we have AIM missionaries today are relatively calm, but could blow up any time. This Congo trip brought me to Bunia, about 100 miles from where we spent our first 9 years with AIM.

Monday, March 1

It took about 1 ½ hours to get to Bunia in one of our small AIM AIR airplanes from Entebbe, Uganda. Getting through customs and immigrations went a lot easier than I had anticipated. Driving through town things looked very similar to what it was when we evacuated because of the civil war in 1996. The big difference was the UN peacekeeping force’s presence. Many UN camps, compounds and vehicles, and there were people everywhere. I should get back into town soon and anticipate I will notice many more changes.

The reason I came here was to make some much needed repairs to a missionary house where 2 of our single missionary ladies live. Missionaries are quite resourceful but the work needed in this house was proving to be a bit much. The first order of business, and what could be the most time consuming, was to see what was going on with the electrical system in the house. There are 3 phases, or lines, of what is supposed to be 220v electricity in each phase coming to the house that is supplied by the utility company. The problem is the voltage is basically never 220v. I have measured it and found 2 of the phases vary between 130v and 175v. And those are the 2 good ones. The 3rd phase only gets up to 85v. The idea is that you divide up the load on the house between the 3 phases. The power company came out and to rectify the problem they put the whole house on one phase. To complicate matters there is wiring to accommodate a generator (currently not working) that can power the house should the power not come in at all from the power company (as is the case as I type this). The problem is, whoever modified the wiring to connect the generator did not have the proper switches to switch between the power company and generator power. They used a rather ingenious method to do it but it makes for kind of a rat’s nest of wires and lots of connections and plugs.

Tuesday, March 2

As mentioned, another problem here is that the generator is not working. After spending a bit of time on it I determined that there was very little compression in the cylinder causing it to not start. This trouble shooting process was a bit more difficult than it should have been because I basically brought tools for working on electrical and general housing repairs, not engine work. I found one thing that is a bit strange about this generator: it is labeled “Honda Type”. You have heard of counterfeit clothes and bootleg videos, it looks like they are trying to imitate Honda generators, too. I’m sure that parts (rings, piston, bearings etc.) for this thing would be next to impossible to find so it looks like this one will need to be retired.

After a bit of discussion we decided that rather than replace the expensive generator it would be better to add another battery to the existing 12v backup battery system they use to run the 2-way radio, power a few 12v lights around the house (like the one I am using in my room right now) and to power 12v inverters (gizmos that change 12v into 220v electricity). Currently there is only one battery in the system that is charged by a special battery charger that works even if it is plugged into a socket with low voltage. I think a larger battery charger and at least 2 batteries are in order so they can run the battery lights longer. Perhaps a larger inverter, too.

I spent a lot of time today climbing around the attic looking at the wiring (a combination of the regular 220v wires, 110v wires that run to a few rooms to accommodate the Americans, and the 12v wires for the 12v light system) trying to determine what wires at the circuit breaker box go where. First thing tomorrow I will remove the rat’s nest of wires at the circuit breaker box and put it all back together with new wire in an orderly and, I trust, safer fashion.

I think I am going to need to shut off my computer soon, its battery is about dead (remember no power tonight) and hope for power from the power company tomorrow night so I can continue this novel. Just as good that I go to bed early, I feel like I am getting a chest cold. Kind of hurts when I cough.

Wednesday, March 3

Feel a lot better today. Did me good to go to bed early last night. Today I took out all the bad wiring at the circuit breaker box and slowly got everything back together without any real hitches except I really did not have anything to connect all the neutral wires together that were coming back into the circuit breaker box. Usually there is some kind of bar inside the circuit breaker box that they are connected to. I was able to rig up something at the meter instead that should work. We’ll see when the power comes back on and I will test it.

There are 2 sets of wires that weren’t connected before. There is a chance they were for the outside lights so after everything else is up and running I will look into that.

While waiting for the power to come back on I decided to work on adding 2 more lights in the living room. There is only one there now and it is just not bright enough to see well at night. Why not just go out and buy a floor lamp you ask? Remember, this is DR Congo, no Wal-Mart here.

Dinner came and went and still no power. The battery was about dead on my laptop so I could not work on this novel yet and I did not feel like I should be using the precious battery power to read by (no telling how long until the power would come back on to recharge the 12v battery system) so I just sat and listened to the ipod. After about an hour the power came back on. I found no smoke coming from the circuit breaker box so I must have done something right. This is the first evening we have had power since I have been here. The biggest demand for power in the city is in the evening, and that is when the voltage is the lowest, too. I checked and what should have been 220v was 115v. Talk about dim lights, a candle is almost brighter.

You might ask (or not): how do you run things like refrigerators on the extremely low voltage”? Good question. What you do is plug the refrigerator into a voltage stabilizer, a gizmo that takes voltage that is too low or erratic and brings it up and stabilizes it at 220v. One problem is that you have to have at least 150v to make them work, so if the voltage is real low you still have problems.

Well, time for bed.

Thursday, March 4

Got to make a trip into town today to make some purchases. I first took an inventory of the supplies needed then got a ride with someone from the church office. I was kind of surprised by what I saw in town. If most of the stores downtown had been closed up and the ones that were open were almost empty I would not have been that surprised because of all the unrest that has been in the area for years. But then again the UN has been here in force for several years now and as a result many NGO’s (Non-governmental organizations) have started working here and bringing with them lots of outside money which could have resulted in lots of growth and an increase in the availability of goods. So, what I saw was a downtown that looks much like it did 20 years ago when we came here from Rethy to do our shopping. The differences were a few more stores are closed now than 20 years ago, more technology today, and the cell phone companies giving free paint to any store owner willing to paint his store bright pink and advertise for Zane (or for any other company ad with their color).

After visiting about 10 stores I was able to find the plumbing parts to completely redo the drain on the kitchen sink, purchase the wire I needed to run a separate line to the water heater and the light sockets and wall switches needed for the living room.

After getting back I ran the new wire for the water heater then took a look in a room in the lower part of the house. There was something funny in that room that I was shown a couple days ago: there was a spot in the cement wall that was getting warm. Well, today when I touched the spot it was down right HOT. The spot was close to a outlet so I was thinking there must have been a bad connection in a wire in the wall, but when I found it was so hot I really started to wonder. I shut off the electricity in the house and started to chisel into the cement wall. If this was a house in the US this would not have been a problem; the house would have gone up in smoke long before. I got down to some conduit (the metal pipes that hold the wires inside to protect them) and found that I was at a junction of two pipes. In poking at it I noticed a small spark. Wait a minute, I shut off the electricity in the house. How could this be? After standing there a bit wondering what could possibility be going on I noticed that that in the low light of the room I could see the pipe glowing. What have I gotten myself into?

After going back out to the circuit breaker box still in bewilderment and while I was checking a few things I realized something. Apparently several months ago a “technician” from the power company came out to the house to make a repair on a burnt wire coming in to the meter. He switched a few things around and called it good. Well, what he did was to take one of the hot wires from one of the 3 phases and connected it to the neutral side (what you might call the ground side) of the house’s electrical system. Sometimes, right or wrong, they connect the neutral to the metal conduit in the house. And sometimes to give it a better ground they connect the metal conduit to the plumbing (you can see where I am going with this). Hence the shock off the plumbing fixtures (I was going to get around to that in a day or two). But why the hot spot in the wall? Well, 220v (or so) going through the grounded conduit gets to ground (via the bathtub for example) and causes a flow of electricity. The joint in the conduit that was getting hot must have a bad connection and as a result, got hot, real hot. Tomorrow I will make sure nothing else is damaged there and put it back together.

I promise to do a better job than they did here when we construct the theological college.

By the way, there is 90v coming into the house tonight. My laptop battery will charge at this voltage. Glad about that.

Friday, March 5

Today was a relatively boring day compared to yesterday wrapping up loose ends with the electrical side of the repairs I am doing. No smoke or fire in the house so must be OK.

Saturday, March 6

Plumbing, I hate plumbing. Even so it went sort of OK. I would like to post a picture of what the drain pipes for the kitchen sink looked like. Almost as bad as the wiring. They did not leak, but you would be surprised if you saw it. The pipes were sealed together with inner tube rubber, plastic bags and other things I could not identify. Fortunately I found a drain kit for a double sink in town the other day, and more fortunate, it fit. I was able to connect it to the old pipe taking the waste water away from the sink and outside. It went rather well for plumbing.

But then the cupboard needed some serious repairs. The old countertop let water through next to the sink and rotted some of the wood that supports the sink so the sink was falling out. Some of the wooden rails that the drawers slide on are broken/rotted so spent the rest of the day replacing the bad wood. I will finish the rails next week as well as see what I can do about replacing the countertop. One problem here is I have very limited woodworking tools. We will see. Somehow God always provides the means to do what needs to be done.

I have only 5 working days left. Besides the cupboard there is another water heater that needs to be replaced, the kitchen sink faucet (a real problem because I cannot get the correct size here), a few screens, and ….

Sunday, March 7

Went to the French service for Church today. It was much as I expected, even with the words to most of the songs projected in the wall. After Church we went to a restaurant called the “Greek Club” for lunch then went to see the Witmers, a missionary couple we know from way back that are here teaching at the theological college here in Bunia. Also saw the Stabells who are here for 6 weeks teaching at the college.

Tonight the voltage is down to about 75v. My laptop battery will not charge at that voltage.

One thing I did not mention about this house. There are some bullet holes in the front of it. During one of the periods of unrest in Bunia (I forget which one) there was some kind of gun battle out front. The lower holes have been repaired but the ones up high not yet.